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Hans Christoph Timm ![]()
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My new road bike:
(component list) Y-Foil tips and hints
Go
ahead - call me crazy: I have just completed building up my third road
bike. Now any cyclist will agree that everybody needs three bikes: a road
bike, a mountain bike, and a commuter; but three
road bikes?
So what, this is the bike I've been dreaming of for years, and now I was finally able to get my hands on an unbuilt Y-Foil frame, so I just did it. Who cares that I had to have the frame flown in from Los Angeles (since this is a Trek frame, we used USPS for shipping, of course!), buying from a guy I have never met? Of course I was nervous, but I am a bike addict, and there was nothing I could do to stop my craving for a Y-Foil frame. And please look at the pics: Isn't it beautiful! The Y-Foil is still the frame which received the highest score ever by 'tour', Europe's largest cycling magazine. Bicycling, the world's largest cycling publication, was so impressed with the bike when it was introduced in 1998 that they put the Y-Foil on the cover (Nov/Dec 1997 issue), awarded it editors' choice, and devoted both center pages to the bike. The Y-Foil frame is probably the most aerodynamic frame ever made by Trek. It has 38% less wind drag than a conventional frame (according to Trek). It also is durable, light weight, and an eyecatcher (electric guitar?). When the international racing organization (UCI) banned all "unconventional" frame designs from internationally sanctioned competition in 2000 Trek responded by ending production. I hear the Y-Foil is still legal for U.S. racing and is especially cherished by time trialists. If you want your own Y-Foil, note that Chainreaction Bicycles is the only dealer I know of that still has a few new bikes in stock. They are not willing to sell long-distance (meaning you need to add a flight to San Francisco to the purchase price). Unused Y-Foil frames can still be found on Ebay from time to time (winter 2002/3).
The frame still in L.A. I have now completed building up the bike. For a short time I had considered making this a really crazy project bike with ultra-light components (tune-cranks and hubs, DuraAce shifting, etc.), but a look at my bank account helped my stay sane. I have now gone with an almost complete Ultegra triple gruppo, Ritchey WCS seatpost and Pro bars, a Syncros Altura stem I found on Ebay, black brake calipers and a Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheelset. I am not a fan of complete wheelsets, but the Ksyriums look so good, they are reasonably light, and I got them at a good price, so I decided to give them a try. While I am still waiting for a final verdict on the new Time Impact pedal design the bike will first use the Ritchey road SPD pedals off of my other road bike. Wow! Need I say more? I was not too impressed with the 'suspension travel' the frame delivered when I tried it in my living room, but as soon as I had i built up and went for a short spin I was immediately convinced! The frame really is incredibly comfortable. Not as plush as a FS mountain bike, of course, but that's nothing I'd want from a road bike. Teammates tell me that they can see some motion of the beam, but I do not notice anything until I hit a rough section of road - and then I still do not notice anything ;-) !! The plush rear section makes the front seem harsh in comparison. In addition, the frame is much stiffer than any road bike I have ever owned. Steering is much more precise than on my Extratour Team bike I use for racing. Negatives are the lack of adjusters at the cable stops and quite a bit of chain noise (the same as with any light carbon fiber frame). Especially downshifts are very loud, as the STI levers release the chain very harshly. Campy Ergopower would certainly be preferable for this frame. Also, getting the bottle into and out of the cage without scratching the frame is not easy. I changed to a 'Pogo' side-entry bottle cage (from Centurion Germany; same as on my full-suspension tandem) after the first ride. Like on many Trek frames, the paint quality is not very good and the paint scratches and flakes off easily. Last, since the fork is built very high to allow changing to a Rock Shox Ruby Road suspension fork without changes in geometry I am sorta stuck with this rather heavy fork. Changing to a shorter fork would make the already-quick steering too quick. I am not interested in getting a suspension fork on my road bike. (But see below for a solution to this problem.) Thus, the ideal Y-Foil would have:
To avoid damage to the frame should the handlebars slam the frame in case of a crash, Trek recommends the use of Velox bar plugs (or similar padded plugs). These are available from Rivendell if your LBS doesn't want to order them for you. There is one solution for people wanting to upgrade to a lighter all-carbon aftermarket fork: By using the Serotta 'Heads-Up' between the frame and the lower headset bearing you can lift the frame up, allowing for the use of a shorter aftermarket fork. The Heads-UP was originally intended to raise the upper headset bearing, allowing riders wanting a more comfortable riding position to get by without having to resort to a goofy stem angled upwards or lots of headset spacers. (Thanks to the folks at the Y-Foil-email list for this hint).
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